A Racer Cruiser


The Shipman 28 is an attractive cruiser-racer from the 1970s, with excellent sailing performance and reasonable accommodation for her size. The original design is unusual in production boats in having a trim tab on the aft end of the keel to allow the helm balance to be adjusted. This is absent in boats raced in Ireland under class rules.
The Shipman 28 was first built in Visby in Sweden in 1968, and shortly afterwards production was established in Ireland. Production continued in Ireland after they stopped being built in Denmark.

Designed by Olle Enderlein of Sweden, she was is a typical cruiser-racer of her era, with hull lines similar to other modern classics such as the Contessas, Elizabethans and Hustlers. Around 1,300 were built in total, many still being raced, particularly in the Baltic and in Ireland.

Shipman are still in business, although they now produce much larger ultra high tech carbon fibre cruiser-racers.

Olle Enderlein 1917-1993


Olle Enderlein was a renowned Swedish yacht designer of more than 40 sailboats during the 1960s and 70s most notably a slew of Hallberg-Rassys in addition to the Swan 36, Najad 34 and of course the Shipman 28.

Maintenance Briefing

Maintenance 2020

Notes from Open Forum evening on Shipman Maintenance

DMYC - 04 March 2020 

An interesting discussion evolved around the following topics raised by those in attendance:


Fuel Systems: 

This ranged from the various types of Water Separators and their cost (€30 from agricultural equipment supplier, €150 from marine equipment supplier) and appropriateness in a marine situation


●      Online sourcing of cheap quality filters (“Agrico”[?] tractor parts filter €5, “Vapourmatic” marine filter €12; “online fuel filters” site is good value);


●      Fittings & connectors (all use ½ inch BSP adaptor from Dublin Providers);


●      Fuel lines (advisable to install a standard on/off lever valve in order to isolate the fuel tank) and use S/S 316 jubilee clips.


Mast Rake and Rig Tension: 

Of concern to most [racers and cruisers]; getting the mast straight and deciding the angle of the rake; the consequences of over tensioning; the usefulness of the baby stay and the advantages / disadvantages of using the backstay.

 

 Hull Maintenance and Repairs: carrying out minor glass fibre repairs and the application of gel coat; masking and touching up paintwork.

 

 o Sikaflex to fix & seal skin fittings. Fix until hand-tight initially, wait until Sika sets and then secure tight. Otherwise Sika will be squeezed out and impair seal. NB Sikaflex can be undone; Tek 7 cannot!

 

 o Use Tek 7 to secure nuts.

 

 Anti-fouling: The various types available, their advantages and disadvantages; use of so called ‘high-quality / high performance brands versus ‘Jotum’ & ‘Normand’[?] as used by trawler fishermen; preparation of surfaces, the use of scrapers; safety equipment such as face masks, goggles and gloves; cleaning down keels & the use of blasting grit versus walnut nut shells.

 

 o Ground glass blast to remove old antifoul (per works to Jo Slim 2020). General preference for crushed walnut shell instead of glass, more protective of gel coat. Soda blast must b sanded before application of epoxy.

 

 o International brand peel-away poultice.

 

 o Jotum mastic 2pack deck paint €75 euro……why not try ‘Woodies’ Sandtex – Crown exterior masonry paint instead; 3 patch pots at €1.50 each [total cost €4.50] PS. don’t add sand as non-slip grit to paint – it has a tendency ‘clump together’.

 

 o International Brightsides/ Toplac

 

 o Anti-foul for propellers: use of white grease will reduce/inhibit week growth.

 

 o Need a scraper for removing anti-foul? “Harris” - titanium blade scraper available from B & Q at €14.00 each, expensive but worth it!

 

 Anchors: Types; length of chains & ropes; use of split shackles & ‘D’ shackles and cable ties– for quick release;

 

 Techniques to use when retrieving an anchor.

 

 o Use carabiner or split shackle to secure anchor. Chain should be 4- 5 times the length of the hull.

 

 o Secure chain to rope by splicing rope onto chain, or use bowline or anchor hitch. Use cable ties to tidy up lines.

 

 o Secure chain to anchor on front loop of anchor, and tie chain to other end of anchor with thin sacrificial cable tie. Cable tie will break under load, to aid release of anchor from sea bed.

 

 Instruments & Fixtures: essential instruments to have on a boat; types, usefulness & costs; Bluetooth versus wiring; fixing & removal techniques.

 

 o 316 grade stainless steel is the only grade that resists chlorides.

 

 o For sink replacement, use commercial catering ‘bain-marie” (available in 3 sizes) and drill holes for waste outlet.

 

 Boat wiring: fused versus circuit breaker distribution panels; bus bars; led lighting..


Repairing a Morse control unit

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Maintenance

On this page we are looking to capturing some of the tips and tricks from owners to help each other keep the fleet in top condition. 

If you have information that you think is worth sharing, please let us know.

Maintenance 2019

Notes from Open Forum evening on Shipman Maintenance

DMYC - 20 March 2019

The forum commenced at 8:00 pm with a good turnout of 25 members attending. A list of subject matters was generated using a flip chart and this list was used as an agenda for the meeting. The discussions ranged far and wide with some members looking for information of specific issues they have with their boats, while others having carried out repairs or improvements happily share their new found knowledge and experiences – both good and bad!
 
The meeting was experiential – the following is a brief summary of maters covered they are not a verbatim record of all that was discussed, should you like further information on the matters listed we will be happy to put you in contact with the ‘person of experience’.

Gel coat:

●      Boats are made of matt reinforced polyester. Use Plastic Padding for filler. Prime first with No. 3 Thinners before application of 2-pack (epoxy) gel sealant.

●      For cracks, use a chisel or the corner of a can-opener to open up the crack, apply gel coat proud of the surface finish and sand down.

●      No particular brand of polyester gel coat recommended. Note polyester will not adhere to epoxy resin. If you have exposed gel coat below the water line you need to prime it before applying anti fouling.

Shrouds:

●      All the spreaders are different but generally spreaders should be angled slightly up, but spreaders should be angled up bisecting the angle made by the shroud.

●      When beating the leeward shroud should be only tensioned off, not loose.

●      Self-amalgamating tape [obtainable in Halfords] - can be used on shroud above and below spreader to hold it in position. However, only hinged spreaders need to be fixed to the shroud normally the shroud is free at the spreader tip

●      Martin Kennedy suggests looking up ‘Rig Right’ – a US site where you can get the parts.

●      Rigger Gerry Doyle: ’One of the best on the east coast’.

●      See also Hints and advice on rigging and mast by Selden Masts

Safety rails:

●      Recommended that safety rails should not be cladded [white plastic] as it’s not possible to see or tell condition of wire underneath.

Rigg Tension:

●      Invader suggested using: Ivar Dedekam [2001] 'Illustrated Sail& Rig Tuning', by Fenhurst Books, Duke's Path, High Street, Arundal, UK - ISBN 1 898660 67 0., as a useful method of rigging masts, copies of the document will be circulated.

●      Mast bend by 75 – 100 mm to stern (or one-half the thickness of the mast)

●      Lewis Gauge for optimal tension.

●      General note on rigging: Shipman do not like to be sailed tight - if you tighten too much you will pull in the hull. Mast lean back by half thickness of the mast.

Replacing Windows:

●      Straggler replaced windows from HD Marine in Denmark

●      Aluminium mast/window, watch out if you use stainless steel fastenings [bolts and/or pop rivets] Corrosion caused by electric reaction between ferrous and non-ferrous metals – need to isolate with mastic seal, or Viking Marine supply a proprietary isolator rivet.

●      Do not use Sikaflex adhesive as the bond cannot be undone. Use butyl rubber instead. Alternative method is to make a custom gasket: wrap the window panel in cling film and form a gasket in-situ with Tek 7.

●      ‘Shelca’ stated that Eagle Boat Windows in UK supplied all 8 windows for €500.

Fuel filters:

●      Derek showed fuel filters - from Agri Shop (Agco?), much cheaper - also has a contact from hoses.

●      Pirtek www.pirtek.ie a good source for all fittings.

Stern glands:

●      Deep seal alternative to packing and grease. Grease or (gravity-fed) oil can be used, but must be waterproof.

Cutlass bearing:

●      How often does it need to be replaced? Check if the shaft is wearing unevenly.

●      Difficult to replace. (Derek Ramsbottom did a replacement.)

Hoses:

●      Check jubilee clips for rust! – all joints should have double SS clips.

●      Braided or solid hoses preferable.

●      Gas pipe lines are date stamped; replace them on or before the stated date for replacement.

MOB [Man-over-board]

The following is a system ‘perfected and used on Viking:

●      The top and bottom blocks of the mail sheet are attached to the boom and traveller using snap shackles. This will allow the main sheet complete to be removed, inverted and attached to say a halyard to assist in lifting a MOB on board.

●      The mast head halyards should not be used to lift as the angle of the rope and sheave are not aligned and may jamb.

●      Handy billy - to recover someone from overboard:

●      Ideally a separate block & tackle (handy billy) should be carried.

●      Jimmy Green Marine, in Devon, sells a handy billy at £99.00 complete. Worth a look, probably cheaper than making one up new

●      Viking also found that a 5-step minimum boarding ladder is required which will hook over the boat gunnel midships. The ladder must have a short length of rope permanently attached for securing

Finishing wood surfaces:

●      Suggested using either Woodskin (3-coat breathable varnish) or Deks Olje (saturates timber, low-build, flexible varnish).

●      Varnish” “International Perfection” the best, but ordinary Sadolins Woodstain cheaper and will do the job.

●      To remove masking tape, use peanut butter and a blade to remove the tape, and WD40 to remove the adhesive.

●      The Deks Olje the agents are: Igoe International Ltd, 135 Slaney Road, Dublin Industrial Est, Glasnevin, Dublin 11 Tel No: 353-1-830 22 50 Email: info@igoe.ie

●      There are two products [Igoe International] that can be used: Deks Olje D1 is a saturator for mat finish or Deks Olje D2 for a high gloss flexible finish. Both have soft, good wearing finishes, will not crack when and are easy to recoat without heavy sanding.

●      Some boats use Le Tonkinoish varnish for many years with success. It us available from www.SVB24.com

Non slip areas on the deck:

●      Sandtex Exterior Paint is a ‘very’ cheap solution - 4 patch pots [at €1:50 each, total €6 euro] sufficient to cover all no -slip areas. Add sugar to the paint mix to provide a grip surface; the sugar will dissolve after application.

[Compiled by: Helen Bradley/Gerry Glynn/ Colm Duggan/Brian Glynn]