Following on from the success of last year’s cruise in company by Whiterock and Malindi to the Isle Of Man and despite a poorly attended 'cruise' meeting during the winter attended by only Gusto, Whiterock and Malindi, it was decided that our cruise destination would once again be somewhere in the UK. As the cruise was restricted to one week only the perfect choice had to be Anglesey and the Menai Strait as a crew change would be required on Gusto and a crew joining on Whiterock making Holyhead a most convenient port for that purpose.
As events subsequently turned out, crew illness and other inconvenient crew diary factors left Henry and Whiterock crewless for the first few days and as Malindi was lightly crewed by just Bernard and the writer, the sensible arrangement to take was for Henry, Bernard and Andrew to go together on Whiterock (having the more powerful engine). This in the heel of the hunt is what happened and proved to be a most satisfactory arrangement for all concerned.
Friday evening 10pm
Following the loading of stores and filling Whiterock's tank with fresh water we repaired to the bar of the RIYC for a pre cruise drink and night cap with the crew of Gusto - Christine, Pascale and Derek. The plan as the tide dictated was to leave Dun Laoghaire at 04.30 on Saturday morning and arrive off Holyhead at the start of the north going flood that afternoon.
Saturday (day 1) 4 am
Bernard's mobile phone awakened us from a very uneasy sleep as we were afraid of sleeping it in and miss our timing. With the wind still on the fresh side but at least from the NW and perfect for a course to Holyhead, we set the no. 3 genoa and one reef in the main working on the basis that it would be easier to 'change up' than down should conditions improve. As it turned out the chosen rig was perfect and we bowled along at a steady 5 to 6 knots. By 06.30 the Kish was abeam and with the rising sun beginning to warm us up and a moderate sea state all looked well for the long passage. At around 0930 Henry prepared breakfast of fruit, bread and marmalade which tasted delicious as only food can do in the open air and on the hour we maintained radio contact with Gusto who were sailing under the same rig as ourselves and about 500 yards slightly ahead and to windward.
Later on in the day we enjoyed an excellent lunch of hot casserole lovingly prepared for us by Joan Robinson followed by cheese and biscuits and all washed down by hot fresh coffee. The wind remained steady more or less all day and after a very pleasant journey we arrived at Holyhead marina at 4pm having made the crossing in eleven and a half hours. Later on in Holyhead Sailing club we enjoyed the largest portions of Haddock and chips I have ever seen all washed down with pints of Younger's bitter.
Sunday (day 2)
This being Father’s day Henry wanted to treat Bernard and myself to a full traditional cooked breakfast in the local hotel just down from the marina. Regretfully by the time we got ourselves organized and to the hotel breakfast was finished and we could not even have coffee and toast. (Some of these people survive in business despite themselves). Not to be thwarted however we found a cafe in 'downtown' Holyhead and enjoyed a traditional breakfast, not in the most salubrious surroundings. Our plan agreed earlier with Gusto was to enter the Menai at the Southern end via the Caernarvon bar, we departed Holyhead 2 hours before low water so that when we arrived at the bar the tide would be almost 3 hours into its flood and the timing would be perfect for entering the strait. Following a quiet motor sail down the west coast of Anglesey in ideal conditions and perfect visibility we were able to pick up the fairway buoys without difficulty and follow the numbered channel buoys all the way in to the marina which is just past the great Norman castle. This is a most imposing sight and in the past must have really intimidated any raiders thinking of sacking the town from the seaward side. Later on not far from the marina which is virtually just outside the old town walls we found an excellent venue in the 'Black Buoy' pub/restaurant for dinner and nightcaps.
Monday (day 3)
This was a Lay Day and during the morning we visited the most impressive Norman castle where we recommend you take the guided tour. Caernarvon is a lovely town and most of us spent the afternoon wandering around the shops and just taking it easy. During the afternoon Jonathan Murphy arrived via ferry, train and bus from Dun Laoghaire so Whiterock was once again fully crewed. Unfortunately Derek on Gusto had to return to Dublin leaving just Christine and Pascale to work the ship for the next stage of our journey up the Menai and through the Swellies to Conway. They would also be short handed for the leg around the north coast to Holyhead but at least Monica Lee would be joining them at Holyhead for the Irish sea crossing back to Dun Laoghaire.
As matters transpired this proved to be not a problem as Bernard transferred from Whiterock to Gusto leaving each boat with a crew of three and we can report that he did not find sailing with the two ladies any great strain at all! In the evening we enjoyed our nightcaps in The Royal Welsh YC where the clubhouse is comprised of rooms actually set in the town wall itself that gives some idea of the thickness of the walls built by the Normans to protect themselves from the marauding Welsh. We were given a tour of the club ending with a climb up a narrow spiral staircase to the roof where they have a platform for starting their races. It is doubtful if there is any yacht club in the world with a more magnificent view that takes in a fairytale castle and harbour complete with mountain backdrop such as at Caernarvon.
Tuesday (day 4)
One of the problems with traversing the Menai and Swellies from South to North and Conway as the destination is that in getting the tide right at the Swellies there may not be sufficient flood tide left to make the passage around Puffin Island and over to Conway before the ebb commences and it becomes impossible to enter Conway against the combined flow of the tide and river. Despite consideration, there seemed to be no solution except to moor up at Beaumaris and wait out a tide. While rambling along the waterfront Bernard met up with the pilot of one of the Strait excursion craft who suggested that given the right conditions, it was possible to divert across the Lavan Sands direct to Conway as opposed to going around Puffin Island. This was pure 'Riddle of the Sands' stuff because if the timing went wrong it would be like getting stranded on Sandymount strand with the tide out. The idea was appealing and as the weather conditions were good, following a two boat conference on Gusto it was decided that we would give it a try. The turn off point in the main channel was buoy no. 6 north of Beaumaris and in studying the chart Christine and Pascale spotted a deeper water channel called the Penmaen Swatch which would be a bit like the cockel lake on Sandymount strand. Plotting the co-ordinates of the channel gave us a bit more depth across the sands and boosted our confidence.With flat conditions, super visibility and the Welsh mainland mountains as a backdrop and a force 3 breeze we crossed the sands to arrive at the Conway fairway buoy just before the ebb commenced and were snug and safe in the marina by the time the river outside was racing down to the sea. That evening we treated ourselves to an excellent dinner in the Castle Hotel which is the premier hotel in Conway.
Wednesday (day 5)
This was another 'Lay day' and Bernard, Christine, Pascale and Jonathan decided on spending the day walking and climbing to a local historic bronze age fort situated on the top of the mountain overlooking Conway. Henry and the writer who both had some personal reasons for visiting Liverpool set out from Conway by train. There is an excellent service from Conway railway station via Chester and in just under two hours we were standing in Lime Street station in the heart of the city. Without delay we made our way to the Britannia Adelphi Hotel (once the hang out of all the wealthy ship owners of Liverpool) and in the splendor of the main lounge where once as mere junior officers in the Merchant Navy we could not afford to even look, treated ourselves to morning coffee and sumptuous cakes. Thereafter we went our separate ways for a few hours but met up again for afternoon tea down in the Mersey river ferry port terminal. Later on we joined up with the others again for dinner in the restaurant beside Conway marina to compare our adventures of the day.
Thursday (day 6)
To maintain our planned schedule our plan was to return to Holyhead where Gusto would pick up Monica Lee their additional crew member for the passage back to Dun Laoghaire. As ever, in this part of the world one must go with the tide or one does not go at all (except backwards). At half flood tide we worked out of the marina and into the full incoming flow of the tide and at full revs from Whiterocks 20 horses battled against the stream. Here the current is so strong that some of the smaller mooring buoys laid in the river were virtually submerged such was the strain on their mooring chains. One does not think of the consequences should the engine fail at such a time. However Whiterocks and Gusto's diesel fuelled horses galloped manfully without a falter and we reached the fairway buoy safely. By the time we reached Puffin Island the ebb had commenced and as the water drains out of Liverpool bay like out of a bath tub, our speed over the ground heading west was impressive to say the least.
Approaching Carmel Head when on the final approach to Holyhead harbour from the North and East of Anglesey the sat nav. on Whiterock recorded our speed at 8.5 knots over the ground with little wind and the engine just ticking over. The speed at which we passed the Archdeacon rock cardinal mark and swished on through the East Platters channel was impressive to say the least and confirmed once again if indeed confirmation was needed that in this part of the world the tide is certainly master.
By six o'clock we were safely alongside in Holyhead marina and looking forward to our last night in Wales.
Friday (day 7)
As the forecast was promising light winds and calm conditions for the Irish sea we prepared for a crossing that most likely would be a combination of sailing, motor sailing, and just plain motoring under engine only. At least no rain was forecast and as we had been very lucky with the weather all week we were hopeful that it would remain fine for at lest the best part of the trip. In the event that is how it turned out and following an 06.30 departure from Holyhead marina and a combination of all the conditions aforementioned we arrived at Whiterock's berth at the RIYC at 5.30 pm giving a crossing time of eleven hours. As luck would have it, just as we were mooring up the rain started but even this could not dampen our spirits as all in all we had had a most enjoyable weeks cruising in good company and a nice break away from the normal routine of it all.
So, where to next year? We will have to wait and see but we will certainly go somewhere and hopefully more Shipman sailors will join us on our cruising in company odysseys.
