SUMMER CRUISE 2010 - Andrew Gray

Due to conflicting diary arrangements and commitments the 2010 Shipman cruise in company would once again turn into single cruises with various boats doing their own thing and heading off in different directions. Whiterock favoured the West coast of Wales again or depending on prevailing weather conditions North to Carlingford and Strangford, while Gusto had their minds set on West Cork and participation in the Calves week activities in Baltimore. Doireann in the meanwhile had their trip to Scotland all mapped out so regretfully the best laid plans for a Shipman cruise in company fell by the wayside or should that be quayside.
As all of us cruising on Whiterock with Henry want to if at all possible visit ports where we have never been before and preferably where there is a marina, we decided to give Pwllheli a try as not only is there a marina there but also the prospect of interesting shore going excursions including a steam railway should we become weather bound which is not unknown in that part of the world. It was planned to depart Dun Laoghaire on Sunday 11th July at the appropriate time to catch the last of the ebb at Bardsey Sound and the new flood up to Pwllheli as the marina has a gate or sill and is only accessible at certain stages of the tide. It is also not the place to be in strong South Westerly winds and if these are a possibility at all while in the area, one should not go there. Typically for us, the forecasted conditions towards the end of our chosen week were strong to storm force winds in the Irish Sea and from what direction, you guessed it, SW. So, a change of plan was called for and rather than risk being caught out on a lee shore if the gales materialized we decided to go North to Carlingford and Strangford where hopefully we would be more sheltered if and when the strong winds would eventually arrive.

Sunday 11th July 16.30hrs
As it is essential to get the tides right for entering Carlingford Lough we decided to make Howth our starting point early on Monday morning so at 16.30 hrs.on Sunday afternoon we departed Henry’s berth at the R.I.Y.C. for the short sail to Howth marina where we later enjoyed an excellent meal in Findlaters restaurant and watched the world cup final match between Spain and Holland. If the noise of the crowd in the bar was anything to go by Spain was certainly the favourites and proved to be popular winners at the end of the night. The crew for this first stage of the cruise was Henry, Jonathan, Bernard and Andrew but unfortunately Jonathan would be leaving us at Carlingford due to business commitments.

Monday 12th July
Wakening to the melodies tune of Jonathan’s mobile phone alarm we had Whiterock rigged and ready for the off by 04.30 and with full main and no. 2 Genoa departed Howth marina. In quiet conditions with just a hint of dawn in the Eastern sky we headed out past Ireland’s Eye with our bow pointing at the Western end of Lambay Island an old friend of Henry’s and scene of many a racing success for him in Whiterock. As the wind remained light and more or less on the nose motor sailing was the order of the day to maintain our required speed of five to six knots to be certain of carrying the tide through the entrance channel and into Carlingford. In passing Lord Revelstokes private harbour and Lutyens designed farm buildings on Lambay the thought that struck us all was how run down the place appeared and we wondered was the island still in the ownership of the same family or had there been a change of ownership. Coincidentally the first Lord Revelstoke was one Cecil Baring of Barings Bank London that was brought down by rogue trader Nick Leeson in 1995 and we wondered if perhaps since then with the money all gone had the old Lord lost the will to carry on and let the place go downhill before he died. He is apparently interred in a mausoleum in the garden of the castle that possibly could be a bit disconcerting for any new owner of the place.
Time 7am Passing Rockabill lighthouse near Skerries in glorious sunshine and blue skies and feeling sorry for all those who would be just about to brave the traffic on the M1 & M50 as they headed into work. Still little wind but Whiterock progressing well at just under six knots over the ground according to Garmin and the satellites. As it was now time for breakfast Henry soon had the kettle going and there is nothing comparable to the aroma of freshly made coffee in the still sea air on a sunny morning except smoky bacon frying in the pan.
Time 12.00 noon Arrived at Hellyhunter South Cardinal buoy marking the approach to the narrow and rocky entrance to Carlingford. Bernard was well prepared with a very comprehensive chartlet of the navigation channel showing all the buoys and their numbers in sequence without which and clear visibility getting in to the lough would not be easy. Also, without a powerful engine it would be difficult and even then one should go with the tides.
Time 1pm Tied up at Carlingford marina which is away beyond the old harbour (drying) and it is essential to leave the yellow marina approach buoy well to port (marks a sand spit running West) when approaching the entrance. The charge of €28 per night is a bit steep for the very basic facilities available. Following an early pint in the marina bar and delicious lunch of steaming hot casserole again lovingly prepared for us by Joan Robinson the day before, Henry looked up an old colleague who had served with him as a junior radio officer in Irish Shipping some forty years ago and who now lives in the Carlingford area. Seamus promptly arrived at the marina in his car and very kindly brought us all on a tour of the local beauty spots that also offered magnificent views of the lough. As a special treat he also brought us for a session in his clinic that simulates the conditions found in underground salt mines and known to improve the condition of those suffering from breathing and bronchial conditions. During the treatment one is wonderfully relaxed in a most soothing atmosphere and you can feel the salty air permeating your lungs and bronchial tubes and freeing them up.

Tuesday 13th Carlingford to Ardglass
In the early hours Jonathan quietly left the ship to catch the first bus to Dundalk where he would take the train to Dublin and hopefully be at his desk by starting time at 9am. We did feel a bit guilty about him having to go to work but that quickly passed as we made ready for the next leg of our journey North. To make the most of the North going ebb as it is in this part of the Irish Sea we departed the marina while the last of the flood was still pouring into Carlingford Lough. This has to be seen to be believed and it took every one of Whiterocks 20 Beta horses to push us out and in some parts of the channel we sat looking at the navigation buoys for quite some time before clawing our way past. Eventually we again reached the Hellyhunter cardinal and turned our bow Northwards, as usual the wind almost dead on the nose with a choppy little sea. Motor sailing was the only way to make any progress and for cruising adventures it might be worth considering fitting a three bladed prop for the duration of any planned cruises. Stepping out the distance on Admiralty chart 1411 gives a distance of just a little over 22 miles from Helihunter to Ardglass and against short little seas progress was slow and we did not reach Ardglass until 6pm. On coming into the marina we were delighted to see Doireann already all snugged down and Hugh Collins and crew about to have a little ziz before venturing up town in search of dinner. Later we met them again in an excellent Chinese restaurant called the ‘East Essence’ just a short distance from the marina where we all enjoyed a super meal. To round off the evening we enjoyed our night caps in a pub where Bernard and the writer last visited over 24 years ago when we sailed to Scotland in our Ruffian 23 Rapscallion. We were also pleased to meet up with Peter and Susan Grey who were taking a short rest in the marina on their way to the Clyde in Waxwing and Peter admitted that if he had known what he knew by the end of their epic sail around the world at the beginning, the cruise may never have happened. Meeting conditions severe enough to knock down a vessel the size of Waxwing must have been very frightening and would certainly alter ones views on ocean cruising.

Wednesday 14th Ardglass to Portaferry
The overnight and early morning conditions were not conducive to going anywhere but by the time we had treated ourselves to a delicious late breakfast of a cholesterol rich Ulster Fry in ‘Ebb Tide’ the local coffee shop, the rain had stopped, the wind and the seas moderated, and yachts that had appeared completely deserted suddenly came to life and were preparing to leave. Doireann was first to depart heading for Scotland leaving behind one of her crew Dermot Keeley owner of Shipman Karka who agreed to join Whiterock for the remainder of our cruise. Had Whiterock not arrived in Ardglass Dermot would have had to bus it back to DunLaoghaire but sailing on Whiterock proved the more attractive option. Within a very short time we too were on our way turning Northwards on course for Strangford. From Ardglass it is only a very short distance to the safe water buoy off Ballyquintin Point marking the entrance to the Lough and having heard so many different accounts of how the tides run through the narrow channel up to Portaferry we were anxious enough about the passage ahead. Luckily the weather was kind to us with good visibility and calm conditions and with perfect timing of half flood we were sluiced in at times up to 11 knots over the ground and without mishap turned into the small marina at Portaferry. Later on as there was no sign of life around the local yacht club we repaired to the five star Portaferry Hotel situated just outside the marina gate for an excellent dinner in very salubrious surroundings. Luckily Henry had brought his RIYC cravat so at least on of us was properly attired.

Thursday 15th
Strangford Lough Yacht Club is located towards the North Western corner of the Lough in an area called Whiterock. As Henry believes this is where his Shipman is named after it was mandatory that we go there before returning home. The lough is littered with ‘pladdies’ ( rocks and reefs ) and should not be attempted without an up to date large scale chart. With Bernard in charge of navigation and all eyes on watch to spot these dangers before they found us, we progressed up the lough and in the age old fashion way of stopping a local vessel to ask where we were, arrived safely at the club and as it was high water were able to go alongside the jetty. Unfortunately the clubhouse was not open but instead Henry got the kettle going and we enjoyed afternoon tea and sandwiches in the cockpit of Whiterock, in pleasant warm sunshine. On the return leg back down to Portaferry, due to poor visibility in a rain squall we literally came within yards of leaving Whiterock’s keel on one of those aforementioned pladdies fortuitously spotted at the last moment. But for the grace of God and a very fast 360 degree turn, Henry as well as Dermot and the rest of us could have been returning home to Dun Laoghaire by train instead of in his beloved little ship. Earlier on the day before when we first arrived in Portaferry we got talking to a friendly local who subsequently turned out to be one of the pilots on the Strangford ferry. As Thursday was our last evening before heading for home we decided to cross over to Strangford village to have a meal in a recommended pub and restaurant called ‘‘An Cuan’’. When we boarded the ferry the pilot was none other than our friendly local who immediately invited us to join him on the bridge for the crossing and although not exactly the cockpit of a 747 nonetheless proved very interesting. The meal in “An Cuan” was superb with Bernard enjoying the best genuinely smoked Haddock he claimed he had ever tasted.

Friday 16th
Our plan was to leave with the start of the ebb early on Friday morning but on wakening at 7am with gale force winds and torrential rain still buffeting Whiterock in the marina there was nothing else for it but to go back to sleep and assess the situation later. By 9am the sky had cleared but the wind was still a good force 6 and 7 in the gusts so we did the sensible thing and went for breakfast in the hotel. By the time we had finished our rashers and eggs things looked much calmer outside and as we still had one hour or so of ebb left to get out of the lough before it became impossible against the incoming flood we decided to have a go. If conditions proved too difficult outside to continue on to Dun Laoghaire, we reckoned that Ardglass would be a convenient and safe bolt hole/refuge to make for. As it subsequently turned out, the conditions continued to improve as the day wore on and eleven and a half hours of sailing and motor sailing later saw us back at Henry’s RIYC pontoon berth to end another very enjoyable mini cruise in Whiterock.

Post Script
Within an hour of arrival Whiterock was back in full racing mode and Henry raced next day and finished 3rd.